For those just joining the story, be sure to check out Parts One, Two, and Three.

Outside immigration, we hailed a taxi who agreed to take our UAE dirhams. There are no banks on Kish Island that accept U.S. or European bank cards. Credit cards are also not accepted anywhere. Cabs on Kish Island do not have meters, so we negotiated a 15 dirham (~$4) rate to take us to the city centre. I had read the Wiki Travel guide for Kish Island, but had not examined a map of the island and had ...