Kauai: Kalalau Trail and Na Pali Coast

On my third day in Kauai I thought it would be an awesome idea to hike the north coast unreachable by car.  I read a great guidebook “The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook,” by Andrew Doughty that outlined the various trails on the island.  The Kalalau Trail running for 11 miles along with north coast looked the most appealing.  You drive north on Highway 56 through Ha’ena State Park until the road ends.  The trail starts there.

This hike is not for the lighthearted, especially during the rainy winter months.  Most people choose the four-mile hike that goes from Ke’e Beach to Hanakapi’ai Beach.  This part of the trail is graded, but never level, as you cross over 300+ feet cliffs into the Pacific Ocean.  Torrential downpours occur hourly, but even with the muddy conditions this part of the trail is wide and well maintained.  You descend until you reach sea level at Hanakapi’ai Beach. To hike the remaining nine miles of the trail you must obtain a permit from the Department of Natural Resources.  At this point you can hike back or proceed another two miles on an unmaintained path up to Hanakapi’ai falls.  I chose the latter.

I do NOT recommend this trail if you are not an experienced hiker.  Unmaintained is understatement.  You follow a river up to the falls, which is your only point of reference for most the hike.  I lost the trail several times after it rained, which washed away parts of the path.  You traverse the freezing river 5-7 times depending on how many times you get lost.  When it rains the river swells, leaving you to forge waist deep water that moments before was knee deep (aka flash flooding).  The path is extremely narrow and some stretches require you rock climb to reach the next grade.  The four-hour hike made sense once I stood beneath the Hanakapi’ai falls.

The hike back was pure torture, especially the last two miles that were straight uphill.  Thanks to the rugged terrain, the eight-mile hike took me just under six hours.  My body was not happy with my decision to complete this hike, but it was a once in a lifetime experience I won’t forget.

Suggested gear: waterproof hiking boots, lots of water, walking stick for the first part, bright string you can tie to trees to mark your path on the way up to the falls, waterproof backpack, camera, bug spray, change of clothes, and sandals to put on after hike.  I also suggest you start early so you don't get stuck on the trail after sunset and you avoid the afternoon crowds.

 I didn't see this "Danger Scale" until after the hike   

Rock tunnels before the entrance to the Kalalau trail 

The first signs that this might be a bad life choice

Beautiful rainbows during the first mile kept me optimistic

This is not your average hiking view

Picturesque views of the Na Pali Coast

Finally reached Hanakapi’ai Beach and made the fateful decision to continue to the falls

Another warning I failed to acknowledge

 

 Crawling over this waterfall was the first time I considered this might be a bad idea

This is super sketchy

My motivation to solider through the last mile 

 This was the quality of the path up to the falls

After 3.5 hours I finally reached the Hanakapi’ai falls!!!!

I will spare all of you from the pics of me at the falls, I wasn't looking my best at that point

Casualties of the hike: my lower body, shoes, socks, shirt, and motivation to hike on vacation again!

Day 4 recap coming tomorrow

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